Two day trip to Pristina: Tuesday September 10 to Thursday September 12 2013
It was already a 10 hour travel day when my flight finally took off from Houston to Frankfurt. I was excited to route the trip through Germany given that Oktoberfest was right around the corner. My flight to Pristina was scheduled for 9:30 the next morning and I thought that I would have a fun day in Frankfurt and be able to practice Deutsch sprechen; however I had no idea how tired I would be on arrival. Luckily my hotel was located just across the landbridge from Terminal 1 and so I never even left the airport complex. I was able to muster enough energy to have two special Oktoberfest beers from Paulaner in the square. Also the best wurst (I’ve waited a long time to use this pun). I also picked up some important reading material.
Gračanica, Kosovo: 28 September 2013
A quick bus ride from Pristina and the terrain begins to change. Toured the Serbian Orthodox Monastery there that was originally founded in 1321. It was an impressive site. They didn’t allow any pictures from inside the grounds but there are many online.
Belgrade, Serbia: 11-13 October 2013 (UNMIK Trip)
Went with the United Nations Mission in Kosovo (UNMIK) so we were able to cross directly into Serbia from Kosovo. It was easy and seamless, but also meant that I wouldn’t get a passport stamp. Took the UN bus for discreet travel on the 6 hour trip, including a 20 minute rest stop at a convenience store once we got on the tollway in Serbia. (A toilet on the bus so it was more of a smoking break I think than anything else). The accommodation arranged by UNMIK, the Hotel Excelsior, was really nice and a great location! Had free wi-fi and a breakfast buffet. Sad to admit this but the cable tv was also good – including some American shows in syndication. I know you’re asking, why are you watching tv when you’re in Belgrade. Because when you’re my age you are in bed watching cable at midnight and not out at a club (generally).
Sites (my feet still hate me): Kalemegdan Citadel, Military Museum, Skadarska, Serbian National Museum, Nikla Tesla Museum, Sveti Sava, Sveti Marko, McDonald’s (Lonely Planet Guides are awesome)
It was also the Campaign Against Breast Cancer in Serbia weekend. Got awesome pink ribbon t-shirts written in Serbian – souvenirs and donation to great cause all in one. 
Thessaloniki, Greece: 25-27 October, 2013 (UNMIK)
The UN bus was packed for this trip. According to Google maps this was only a 3 hour and 52 minute trip. Somehow 2 border stops (Macedonia and Greece) and a 30 minute rest stop outside Skopje turned into a 6+ hour drive. We also lost an hour so we arrived at the hotel (Holiday Inn) after 11pm. No matter, after checking in and taking only a few minutes to freshen up, we got to center city just before midnight. We came across the highly rated Panellinion Restaurant and it was a perfect choice – welcome to Greece. The atmosphere was energizing. Everything was great – music, crowd, food, service, and OUZO! Needless to say that the early morning start we had all planned didn’t happen. Another big surprise for Saturday, it was a holiday weekend (for Saint Dimitrios, Thessaloniki’s patron Saint) and all of the shops were closed Saturday and Sunday.
Still covered plenty of sites: Church of Agios Dimitrios, the White Tower, the Museum of Byzantine Culture, Palace of Galerius, Galerius Rotunda, Church of Agia Sofia. Also had Greek coffee, baklava, and more ouzo.
VIDEO — Greece 2013 was exactly the way I thought it would be
Sofia, Bulgaria: 8-10 November, 2013 (UNMIK)
The trip to Bulgaria was through very winding narrow mountain roads – at least it seemed that way in the dark. We arrived after 11 and after checking in at the Sofia Princess Hotel (which turned out to be a casino) Cindy, Patrick and I went to find a place for dinner and Bulgarian beer. We did exchange a few euros for the local currency (Lev) before leaving the hotel. The money exchange service was through the casino – coincidence? Surprisingly the first place we went (Happy Bar & Grill) closed at 11:30 – on Friday night, hmmm. Then we followed our ears to a place down the street – Raffy Bar & Gelato. Had Bulgarian bbq ribs and cornflake-coated chicken (waiter said these were local faves). Also had a few Zagorka beers. Next day we went on the Free Sofia Tour which was awesome. It was a 2+ hour walking tour but didn’t seem like it was that long, over before we knew it. Sites included: Saint Sofia Statue, Roman ruins, Communist Party Headquarters, Sveta Nedelya Church, Mineral Water Springs, Hagya Sofia Church, St Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, Synod Palace, and Sofia University. Interesting to note, lions everywhere. Went to dinner at Don Doman with Cindy, Patrick, two people from UNMIK and 1 from USAID. Excellent vegetarian dish (nice to have a meat free meal for a change).
On Sunday Cindy and I went with two of the UNMIK folks to the Serdika Center Mall. Finally found some sweaters I liked – just in time since the weather has finally caught up to the calendar (it’s Fall yo). Went to lunch at authentic Bulgarian place – Ресторант “Хаджидрагановите къщи” before catching the bus back to Pristina.
Tirana, Albania: 12 November, 2013 (day trip)
Some friends had an appointment in Tirana and invited me to go. It was a 3 hour drive from Pristina to Tirana and much of it was through beautiful countryside. The roads were excellent and traffic was pretty light (not too surprising on a Tuesday). They dropped me off in Sheshi Skenderbeg (main square). I went first to the Adrion International Bookstore. Picked up English translations of two of Ismail Kadare’s books. Then went across the street and went into the Et’hem Bey Mosque (started 1794, completed 1821). It was the first mosque I’ve ever been to. Luckily a nice English speaking man helped me navigate the rules so I didn’t offend anyone during my visit. After that the National Museum was open. I had a quick lunch at the UFO University Bookstore (wasn’t actually a bookstore that I saw, just a Creperi – crepe restaurant). Must have had 30 different kinds of crepes. I had the Mexicana Tabasco crepe. Pretty interesting combo. Later had an “American” coffee. Not exactly drip but pretty good, and served in a paper cup not plastic water cup. Left for Pristina around 4.
Went on big shopping weekend 23-24 November 2013 with my friend Inge from EULEX: Skopje City Mall on Saturday
and Camp 
Bondsteel on Sunday. 
Istanbul, Turkey: 20 December to 25 December 2013
Freezing fog put a damper on my originally scheduled flight to Istanbul. Got a notice at 3am from Turkish Air that my flight schedule for 9am was canceled (affecting 4 of us flying together). Turkish Air rescheduled all of us on the 1pm flight (which ended up departing at 4pm). Not too bad considering that Istanbul is really close, only 1.5 hours away (with 1 hour time difference). Have to say, overall Turkish Air was a good experience. They served food, drinks, and a movie – like the old days with the U.S. carriers. Arrived 7:30ish Istanbul time. So time to eat [seafood and baklava] and go back to the room. Serious sightseeing started on Saturday. I stayed in a great central location, the touristy hotzone of Sultanhamet. Sites include: Blue Mosque, Aya Sofia, Topkapi Palace, Roman Cistern, Taksim Square, St. Anthony of Padua Church, Grand Bazaar, and Spice Market. 
Signs of growing unrest
Skopje, Macedonia: 11 January 2014 (day trip)
Been invited to go on a ski weekend to Kapaonik Serbia but can’t cross the border from Kosovo to Serbia (except with UNMIK). The secret is to get an entry stamp to Serbia from another country. Travelled by car with Inge and other EULEX folks to Skopje to cross into Serbia from Macedonia. Spent the day in Skopje. Main activity was to go to old town to look for puzzle rings. I gave in to peer pressure and bought one too. Lunch was another main activity :). The border crossing was rather uneventful, although there did seem to be tension in our group as we crossed. Everyone maintained a very serious demeanor – no joking, no one even smiled. Thanks to freezing fog, didn’t make it back to Pristina until around 20:00.
Gjakova, Kosovo: 12 January 2014 (day trip)
My friend and close colleague, Eda, and her husband asked me to go with them to her hometown of Gjakova. It was a couple of hours from Pristina and a nice drive. Had lunch, did some sightseeing, visited the Gjakova campus of University of Prishtina, drank coffee, drove back. Gjakova has a fascinating history. It is the intellectual capital of Kosovo.
Had Tava (and rakia) 
Kapaonik, Serbia: 17-19 January 2014
Last trip of the trip. I’m flying back to U.S. on 23 January and welcome the distraction of a weekend away. Been invited to go on a ski weekend with folks from EULEX and the German Embassy in Kosovo. I’m getting used to being the only American.
lost in simulacra 